May 6/07
Small truths
A few years ago some friends and I had the bright idea to organize a roadtrip from Dakar to The Gambia at 3am. Anyone who’s worked the 7-places circuit around West Africa can tell you that negotiating the price of a bush taxi in the dark corners of a large gare routière is never a good idea in the middle of the night.
We ended up getting partially mugged by a large and rather talentless gang of pickpockets after our first taxi drove us deeper into the dark corners of the station instead of out onto the road. These kinds of situations are rarely dangerous in West Africa but they can certainly delay your departure.
Once we got out of that situation we found another ride outside the station. Unfortunately about 500m into our new trip we had to punch the driver and pull up his parking brake in the middle of the highway so we could escape. You see, he was driving us in a circle, back into the same group of thieves who this time seemed a little more prepared, while trying to physically restrain us from opening the door. We managed to get out and hop over the guard rail where, miraculously, another taxi was coming the other way. Unfortunately this chauffeur was very drunk and demanded a bribe to take us away from the angry, approaching gare routière crew.
A couple quick and loud negotiations later and we eventually made it to a hotel who sheltered us for about an hour while we tried to get the cops to chase away the taxi dudes (patiently waiting for us outside at this stage). However, as so often happens in these situations, the cops were less than helpful. The whole affair lasted until near morning. At the end of it we were out a couple bucks but still had (most) belongings and no injuries. Everyone was in high spirits so, of course, we flagged another taxi, piled in, and drove down to The Gambia as the sun rose.
One exploding tire at 120km/h and one large box of red wine consumed by our third and non-evil chauffeur later and we were at the border crossing, safe and sound.
The bottom line: ça dépend du chauffeur. (It depends on the driver.) So much of life in West Africa comes down to small truths like this.
Papson – Ça depend
Lenny Kravitz – Mr. Cab Driver

Today we have a third highlife installment from Benn loxo listener, ubulujaja:
I don’t know much about Muchacha Imuzor as there are no liner notes or list of performers on any of the LP’s I have managed to find, but he did a number of good Ukwauni styled highlife records in the 70′s for the EMI Label. The song Anazo Eze is a 16 minute track off an LP of the same name. His vocals have a distinctive urgency that bring together the rhythms of the guitar, percussion instruments and chorus to make a solid Ukwauni praise song.”
Been doing a lot of home living and home cooking lately. Today’s track is especially great for when you’re chopping onions.. knife in my left, glass of red in my right, highlife-ing around the kitchen.
I’m not exactly sure how or when
In 1971 a bunch of big name American soul and rock musicians traveled to Accra, Ghana, for a live performance called Soul to Soul. Anywhere between 100,000 to 200,000 people showed up to Accra’s Black Star Square to watch the likes of Wilson Pickett, Tina Turner, The Staple Sisters, Santana and Roberta Flack perform for over 13 hours. A few Ghanaian acts such as Kwa Mensah and The Aliens got to perform too, but apparently the locals split a $1000 paycheck while the Americans earned a cool $50,000.
Happy new year.
Benn loxo listener, Tom, sent me some interesting music from Ghana the other day. He writes,
Today we have a guest post by Benn loxo listener, Wen, on Ghanaian “Hip Life” music:
While German and Polish fans run around throwing bottles at the police in Dortmund, the Ghanaians are dancing around fountains in Stuttgart. The Black Star fans that I’ve seen here and in Munich have great spirit.