I spent a week in Senegal in April for the first time since October, 2006.

The city has changed a lot superficially: many highways and flyovers have been built, posh Iranian-made taxis fill the streets, and glittering new nightclubs with a 15 Euro entry and leather shoe requirement have sprung-up all over the Almadies neighbourhood. Many of my old haunts have closed and new ones have taken their place.

But I stress that things have only changed superficially. The overall feel of Dakar is unchanged. Despite all the admittedly great new roads – we were half-joking that Dakar’s infrastructure now easily tops western Ireland’s – car rapides still sputter for space with faded-glory Dakar Dem Dikk Tata buses and the occasional horse-drawn cart; my favourite places are mostly still open, serving dibi and zouk late into the night; Tidjian and Amadou still sit smiling by the door of my old building beside the CCF and greet me like I had just been out of town for a few days; I recognize the faces of many of the car wash kids from my neighbourhood, now grown up, looking bored, rags in hand; and Sandaga remains largely the same with its touts near the music stands pretending to recognize me…and maybe they do.

I paid a visit to probably my favourite bar in Dakar, Chez Diamy in Point E, and it was still packed with a sweaty mass of Ivoirians half-listening and half-dancing to coupé-décalé and zoblazo. No evening would be complete there without a drunken incident involving a stolen wallet and, sure enough, that hadn’t changed either. (It wasn’t mine.) I think they might have even played Miss Lolo at one stage. (Remember, Ed?)

So what does Dakar sound like these days? It’s hard to get a feel in just a few days but I grabbed a dozen or so albums and compilations anyway and paid attention to the playlists in taxis and bars whenever I could.

Without a doubt the biggest thing going in Dakar these days is Titi. Ask any mbalax fan in Dakar between the age of 16-30 and you’ll usually get a “Titi, j’aime titi,” which admittedly makes me laugh every time for every immature reason.

Titi is a hot little mbalax number – a classically tall, thin and beautiful Dakaroise woman – who gets about as much radio play these days as Youssou’s latest Live at Bercy. I think her voice sounds a lot like Michael Jackson in his child-star, Jackson 5 days. Check her out here: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x4yfyc_titi_music. The video for the song I’ll post is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_tFYKZx5TA. Great dancing.

It was also good to hear that some of the old stand-bys are still getting lots of play; Abdou Guitte Seck and Omar Pene were all over the radio.

There were many, many mbalax acts that I didn’t recognize. We’ll hear from Abdou Rass and Ngone Ndiaye today – two great tracks, and to fully understand the spirit (and dancing) of the music you should definitely check-out the videos at the great new-ish Senegalese video site, SenClip: http://www.senclip.net/video/Ngone-Ndiaye-leumbeul and http://www.senclip.net/video/ABDOU-RASS-KOLEURE.

We’ll also hear a good mbalax track by Sidy Samb. You can see his video at yet another Senegalese clip site, Seneweb Videos: http://videos.seneweb.com/viewVideo.php?title=Sidy_Samb_women&video_id=219

Ok, enough mbalax. Hip-hop is still alive and well in Dakar.. but is it just me or has the golden age of Dakar hip-hop finished for now? The hip-hop I’m hearing still sounds like the stuff that hit the airwaves 10-12 years ago. Not that that’s a bad thing, but I poured over quite a few compilations and found only a few solid tracks. But hey, I don’t live there any more. If you’re reading this and disagree please correct me.

It’s good to hear that Daara J minus DJ Makhtar is still producing good music… at least some of them. Daara J Family is the latest iteration, and Tomorrow is a genuinely good tune in the spirit of the original group, which in turn is in the spirit of Positive Black Soul. Check-out their MySpace page. Video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb_XWknv2ak

For something new-ish in the Dakar hip-hop scene we’ll hear from Res KP, a young Dakar rapper with a good sound. In much of his other music he, like many of his hiphop-galsène pals, tends to get a little too hardcore for my tastes. Positive Black Soul and their descendants were so wonderfully… native tongue. That gradual switch to a gangster sound is inevitable, I guess, and unfortunate. Res KP’s track, Calcul Mental, is good anyway. He has a MySpace page, too, and videos all over the web if you’re curious.

It’s impossible to talk about current Dakar music without playing some of that RnB cum reggae sound. Slower-jams are still infinitely popular in Senegal, but not all of it is crazy cheesy. (Notice we’ll skip the zouk.) See what you think of these two tracks by Carlo D and Maklan J.

Big love to Alex & Marianne, Pape, the Pitmans and the rest of you in Dakar who helped me remember what a great place it is.

Titi – Music
Abdou Guitte Seck – Domou Ndar
Omar Pene – Moom Tamit
Abdou Rass – Koleuré
Ngone Ndiaye – Leumbeul Lene
Sidy Samb – Women
Daara J Family – Tomorrow
Res KP – Calcul Mental
Makkan J – Reupeuteul
Carlo D – Yaye Fall

Been busy with the French elections and enjoying the out of control amazing French weather of late. I’m back, though, with about 600 new tracks to dig through, select and post for the Benn loxo crowd.

In 2003, Ben Herson and Daniel Cantor of Nomadic Wax headed to Dakar with a mobile studio. They spread the word that anyone who wanted to lay down a rap track could come record with them.

Three years of post-production later we finally have the second African Underground release from Nomadic Wax, Depths of Dakar.

You might have heard the first African Underground volume on Benn loxo back in May, 2005. This first release was the product of Ben’s 2000 thesis on the influence of hiphop on Senegalese culture. Until recently, it was the easily one the best produced compilations of Senegalese hiphop available.

Since then the production quality of West African hiphop has stepped-up a notch, particularly in places like Senegal and Nigeria. That said, Depths of Dakar continues Nomadic Wax’s tradition of showing us how amazing West African hiphop can sound with the right attention. Many of the rappers featuring on both volumes are previously unknown, young talents on the Dakar scene who shine when mixed with Ben and Daniel’s beats and productions.

Check-out africanunderground.com for more information.

Sen Kumpa – Niawal

Ben Herson, aka Benny Beats, founder of Nomadic Wax, took his mobile studio down to Dakar a few years ago in search of unknown Senegalese MCs.

His African Underground and Mapito recordings are fantastic collections of Senegalese and Tanzanian hiphop. I’ve already featured some on Benn loxo, and I’m sure many of you had a listen. Nomadic Wax’s Democracy in Dakar project about hiphop’s role in the Senegalese elections was also really well put together.

Turns out Ben is a friend of a friend. Hopefully we’ll be linking up this week as he’s coming through Paris to explore the immigration issues surrounding next week’s French elections.. particularly amongst the Senegalese community here.

You can find today’s track, Ben’s mix of a previously unknown Senegalese rapper, Pato, on WorldMusic.NationalGeographic.com‘s release, GeoRemixed: Big Beats for a Small Planet.

Pato – Keep It Real (Benny Beats remix)

During all the Kuduro hype started up by Benn loxo contributor, Boima, several people noted that French electro musician and producer Frédéric Galliano has been really active on the Kuduro scene lately. His MySpace page is full of music from his latest project, Kuduro Sound System. (Love that picture of him arm wrestling Dog Murras.)

Galliano’s interest in African music is wide-ranging, and definitely not limited to Kuduro nor Angolan music. He’s traveled and recorded all over the continent and other parts of the globe, including several solid projects with his own label, Frikyiwa, and its mobile studio in Senegal, Guinea and Mali.

This morning I dug-out one of Galliano’s Frikyiwa projects from Senegal, Ali Boulo Santo. This Dakarois musician, son of respected kora player, Soundioulou Cissoko, is part of that new generation of Senegalese musicians sticking to their acoustic, native instruments and then remixing the results.

Ali Boulo Santo – Dame Fall

Quick post today from the golden age of West African salsa. Guinean salsero, Amara Touré, was part of a group of pre-independence salsa pioneers in Guinea and Senegal. Touré along with others like Laba Sosseh and the Star Band de Dakar kickstarted a West African salsa musical movement that enjoyed widespread success until the 1980s.

There are still a few good salsa bars in Dakar and elsewhere around West Africa. I squeezed in a dirty whisky salsa night in Dakar a few weeks back, though there wasn’t as much dancing as times past. Regardless, that particular house band has improved a lot since I last saw them. In other words, they weren’t just performing Guantanamera on repeat all night.

I wonder what would happen in Paris if, after a particularly good saxophone solo, I went up to the musician and shoved a 5000 CFA note in his suit?

Amara Touré – Cuando Llegare
Star Band de Dakar – Caramelo

Positive Black Soul was one of the first Dakar hip-hop groups to break onto the international scene. They’re universally respected by hip-hop kids in Senegal, and helped inspire a whole generation of new rap groups. Thanks to PBS and those early years of Dakar hip-hop’s rise there was suddenly underground rap fans in places like NYC and Paris whocould rhyme-off a half-dozen Senegalese rap groups, from Pee Froiss to Pacotille to BMG44.

Since PBS’ heyday Daara J has emerged as the new popular Senegalese rap group. However, PBS’ members are still recording and releasing successful albums.

One of the PBS stars, Awadi, recently came out with a new album, Sunugaal, that was all the buzz in Dakar while I was there. After giving it a few listens I was a bit let down. His first record was pretty solid, and while it didn’t quite have the freshness of PBS’ earlier stuff, it was still well worth a listen. The new one is too.. I don’t know.. unoriginal?

I look to East Africa now for new rap releases. In my opinion the Dakar hip-hop scene is trying way to hard to sound like 50 Cent instead of focusing on their biggest musical advantage: a rich local musical heritage that they could draw-on to create their own brand of creative, Senegalese hip-hop.

That said, I’ve never posted Awadi on this site from either his new or old album so we’ll hear some today. Both tracks are off his first album since in general I think it’s a better release. The first track reminds me a lot of Reflection Eternal so I’ll also post their track, African Dream.

Awadi – Le cri ou peuple
Awadi – Neye Leer
Reflection Eternal – Africa Dream

Many of my friends here have had a relatively rough rainy season. Despite the sun, surf and mean brochettes there are occasional downsides to living in Dakar. One friend has typhoid, another has malaria, a few are stressed for reasons best described by financial stamps and rubber cachets, and others are contemplating leaving and how to make that happen. For these reasons and more I picked a mean mbalax tune entitled Solidarité for today’s post.

Not to start-off on a downer or anything… for me at least things are going great here. Freshly-squeezed orange juice and a Walf Fadrji newspaper in the morning, a spicy ceebu jën at lunch, work all day and then sweaty bars with JB and Gazelles at night. The nightlife is near dead because of Ramadan, but it creates a kind of eerie-but-pleasant ambiance in the fluorescent-lit restaurants, bars and clubs.

The sun is hiding behind a thick veil of hivernage clouds but I think it’ll clear up by the weekend. Then there’s the beach, maybe some diving and maybe even a trip down south to enjoy. In the meantime I’ll try to hit the markets tomorrow and Friday and pick-up some more music.

This song is really popular in Dakar at the moment. You’ll hear it in taxis, bars, nightclubs and hissing out of tiny radios held closely to the ear by the thousands of property guards scattered around downtown.

ps- my brother is getting married! Ben, I’ve been raising Flags and Gazelles to you all week. Congratulations.

Nder – Solidarité

I’m finally back in Dakar for a week after nearly a year and a half away.

I got home at 6:30am this morning after a fantastic Paris Nuit Blanche. There was just enough time for about an hour of sleep before I had to leave for the airport.

During the flight the skies were clear so I got a beautiful view of the Saharan dunes 12000m below as we flew over Morocco and Mauritania. Feeling very tired and with a mean hangover, I can’t tell you how good the humid, hot Dakar air felt when it hit my face as I stepped off the plane.

The city hasn’t changed too much since I left. There are more generators humming outside of hotels and market stands (a sad testament to Dakar’s dying electrical infrastructure), the Cathedral and Corniche mosque got makeovers, the roads are a mess from major construction projects, but Dakar is still Dakar.

There are dudes lying out on mats in the street, exhausted from the heat and Ramadan fasting, that smell of diesel, sweat, smoke, Maggi and okra hanging in the air, Lebanese dishing out tasty midday burgers stuffed with fries, onions, meat, eggs and who knows what else, rabatteurs trying to follow me around as I shop for records, street kids playing football in front of fast-moving, rusty and beautifully painted public buses… I could go on and on. I missed this place.

I’m about to meet an old friend for Gazelles and dibi at a great maki up in Castor but I wanted to get a quick post in as a way of welcoming me and, by extension, the Benn loxo community, back to Dakar.

Two tracks today. One live Youssou N’Dour track that really shows the incredible energy that he has on stage, and another mbalax tune that most likely not at your local record store. Mbalax is, after all, the unofficial national music.

Youssou N’Dour – Ndakaru
Assane Ndaye – Baye laye

Lately I’ve really been into Nuru Kane’s latest album, Sigil. My father sent it to me a few weeks ago after reading a bunch of good reviews. As I’ve been really busy lately it’s great that others have picked-up the crate digging slack for me.

I absolutely love both of today’s tracks. The first one reminds me of whipping through Parisian streets late at night on my bike, on my way to some African music concert in a shady bar. The second has been stuck in my head for a while.. always puts me in a good mood when I blast it down my earphones on the walk from the metro to my desk. When that accordian kicks in.. shivers.

Nuru Kane grew-up in the Medina, the main “quartier populaire” in central Dakar. He mixes Moroccan Gnawa which he plays with the three-stringed, bass-lute hybrid instrument, the guimbri, with his native Senegalese styles, plus some splashes from the West. The band he plays with, Bayefall Gnawa, pretty much sums this all up in their name. The lyrics are in Wolof which means I get a kick out of partial comprehension.

Kane is playing in Paris on the 17th. Unfortunately I’m not in town but I heavily encourage any fellow Parisians to check it out.

Nuru Kane – Niane
Nuru Kane – Diarama

I find traces and hard evidence of West African muscial influence pretty much everywhere I travel. Tiken Jah cocktail bars in Palestine, Serere taxi drivers in Argentina, Wolof hiphop fans and Burundian dance parties in Canada, not to forget the frequent concerts, cultural events and random encounters in my current home, France.

I mentioned in my last post that there are a lot of similarities between Paranda, an African-Carib-Spanish fusion music played by the Garifuna-speaking people in Belize, Guatemala, and Honduras, and the music of many contemporary West African musicians, notably those in the acoustic mbalax scene in Senegal.

When I first listened to Aurelio Martinez I immediately thought, “Pape & Cheikh”. Acoustic mbalax musicians such as these guys, Cheikh Lô and others from Senegal and nearby West African countries, use “latin” guitar techniques fused with local rhytms played on West African traditional drums such as djembe and tama. Their singing style is similar to Paranda, too. Something about Garifuna – most likely its West African language roots – gives it a rough-edged quality similar to Wolof that makes it sound great to my ear when sung.

Anyway, I’m not going to dive into a big study of musical and linguistical crossovers, mostly because I know little about them. What I do know is that Aurelio Martinez’s 2004 album, Garifuna Soul, is a must-have if you’re into this sound, whether you’re hearing it in Dakar or Punta Rosa. His album and many other great Belize releases can be found over at Stonetree records. You can also buy it and much of the other music you hear at this site over at Calabash.

Aurelio Martinez appears on that Paranda album I posted last time. He represents the younger generation of Parandero musicians. He still lives and records in his native Honduras where a good-sized community of Garifuna continue to live, speak their language and play their cool music.

I’ve posted a couple contemporary Senegalese acoustic mbalax tunes from Cheikh Lô and Pape et Cheikh to give you an idea of why Paranda strikes me as “so Dakar”.

Aurelio Martinez – Nuwerun
Pape & Cheikh – Kamalemba
Aurelio Martinez – Nirau Hagabu
Cheikh Lô – Dokandeme