Despite what some people think, Parisians are fascinated by the Anglophone world. English-speakers are often surprised to learn that it’s the dream of many French youth to leave France for the UK or N. America so that they can escape the constraints of their relatively conservative society. Those without the gift of language skills look longingly to Montréal, that dreamy city where one can speak French but still feel American. (Most return after their first Québec winter.)

Relatively conservative? Paris? Well, compared to London… yes. In cuisine, fashion and music, absolutely. A trip across the manche will quickly convince anyone who has lived in Paris for a while that, for better or for worse, often the latter in my opinion, people make a much greater effort to individualize themselves in London. Goodbye to the seas of matching black clothing at Paris cafés; farewell to blandly-spiced “asiatique” cuisine; adieu to attractively unhappy brunette singer-songwriters. Hello to gutsy use of colour, brash drum’n'bass, fiery south Asian eats and an unabashed fusion of cultures everywhere you turn. I may be a francophile at heart – I’ll take Paris over London any day – but I’ll readily admit that Paris is London’s tamer, less integrated neighbour.

I was in London last week. Most evenings were busy with work nights out and catch-ups with friends but I did manage to see some music upstairs at Ronnie Scott’s in Soho. It was Friday, so it was Viva La Revolucion! night featuring live latin music. The band was Lokkhi Terra, a “Cuban Bengal” group from London.

Talk about a good example of London cultural mixing. Lokkhi Terra features Bengali, Indian and Cuban vocalists, drummers on congas and tablas, and horns backing-up the frontman, Kishon Khan, on piano. The enthusiastic crowd – very mixed in age, ethnicity and ability to dance – worked the bar for mojitos between salsas.

While I’ve grown to love the Paris music scene in its many forms, this live show was something that you wouldn’t find here. As a French teen might say, it was “so London.”

Lokkhi Terra – Gottogotodhaka
Lokkhi Terra – Nodir Kul (BAS remix)

There’s something really sexy about the word ‘rumba’. It’s also a bit of a misnomer in that over the years it came to represent a variety of Cuban-influenced musical styles popular across Africa, not all of them ‘rumba’ in its original sense.

While the heart of rumba was in the country-formerly-known-as-Zaire, there were many great groups in other countries as well. One reason is the civil war that erupted in Belgium Congo during the 1960s. It forced many Congolese musicians out of the country, a bunch of whom ended up in Tanzania.

Tanzania, located in East Africa just below Kenya, was heavy into the Afro-Congo-Cuban sound during the 1960s. Original Music’s 1983 compilation, The Tanzania Sound, captures this beautifully.

Reading the liner notes this morning I noticed a translation of the lyrics for the Dar Es Salaam Jazz Band’s up-beat track, Fitina Nyingi: “Everyone’s rotten, nothing’s any good, I’m better off alone than with these no-goods.”

Now if that isn’t an upper to get us through a grey Friday, I don’t know what is!

ps- thanks, John.

Nuta Jazz – Janja Yako
Cuban Marimba Band – Beberu
Dar Es Salaam Jazz Band – Fitina Nyingi

I happened to sit beside Charles Schillings at a good Sicilian restaurant last night in Paris. Hopefully this means we’ll be featuring some Afro-electro remixes sometime in the future. Either way, the forthcoming Hôtel Costes 10 that he slipped us features a great opener with the kind of North African overtones we so appreciate here at Benn loxo.

Anyway, back to more Original Music…

Today we’ll hear a couple tracks off Dada Kidawa Sister Kidawa, an interesting compilation of Cuban/Afro-Arab music from Tanzania in the 1960s.

It features venerable bands such as NUTA Jazz plus several others like the Kiko Kids Jazz and the Cuban Marimba Band. All these groups emerged during a guitar-based, dance music phase in Dar Es Salaam that emerged during the early 60s.

The compilation’s title track is perfect for what is probably France’s quietest week. Everyone is on vacation, most stores and restaurants are closed. If Paris were on the ocean I’d be down on the beach, listening to Western Jazz Band as I sipped a cocktail under a palm tree.

ps- Benn loxo listener, Zakariyya, is looking for Afel Bocoum’s Alkibar. Does anyone know where he could buy or trade for a copy?

Kiko Kids Jazz – Tanganyika na Uhuru Kids Jazz
Western Jazz Band – Dada Kidawa

In a post a couple weeks ago about my trip to Cuba I mentioned that I saw some good afrocuban jazz.

Percussionist Oscar Valdes has been on the Cuban jazz scene for a while. The Valdes family has been producing some of Cuba’s most famous musicians for years. Oscar is the son of bolerista Vicentico Valdés who produced a string of his in the 1930s-50s, gaining quite a lot of fame in the US as well as back home.

Along with Chucho Valdes, Oscar Valdes helped form Irakere who later went on to win a Grammy for best latin recording in 1980.

After several years with Irakere he formed a new band with his sons called Diakara. I was lucky enough to catch them at one of their regular gigs, La Zorra y el Cuelvo, a club in Havana’s Vedado neighbourhood.

Oscar Valdes y su grupo Diakara – Prisma

Last week I got back from an 11-day trip in Cuba. I spent about a week in Havana plus a few days time in the west of the country, seeing Pinar del Rio, Vinales and finally the beaches and underwater life at Maria la Gorda.

It goes without saying that Cuban music, both old and new, is amazing. I heard the tourist-ringed but high-quality live salsa and rumba on every corner in Havana Vieja, Santaria rumba with the Conjunto folklórico, Afro-Cuban jazz at La Zorra y El Cuelvo, late nights, hard reggaeton and I-wish-I-could-dance-like them action at numerous clubs in Miramar and Vedado, sub-par big-name salsa at La Casa de la Musica and much more.

I try my best not to get political on this site, but let me say that visiting Cuba is a bit like going to a maximum security prison on the beach, snapping pictures of friendly inmates as they go about their business.

Most Cubans aren’t allowed to travel at all, even inter-city within their own country. The average monthly cash take-home is about 15 Euros a month. Prostitution is a disturbingly tolerated practice on a scale that outstrips Nigerian oil bars and Senegalese nightclubs. There are no boats on the water or in the harbour aside from patrols and tourists, not even for fishing. The vast majority of people aren’t allowed to own a car or pretty much anything else. If you’re a Cuban and have a relationship with a foreigner living in Cuba you will usually kiss your chances of getting a travel permit goodbye. The whole system is setup to reward those who play by the rules and punish those who don’t. Never question Fidel and you might get a TV. Organize enough anti-US parades and you might just get a job at a hotel… and the tips that come with it.

As I said to a friend earlier today, Cuba is a beautiful, fascinating… and ultimately very sad place. Any positive things I had thought about certain aspects of Fidel’s Cuba, such as good medicare, innovative urban agriculture policies, etc, went out the window. All of that is worthless if you have absolutely no freedom. And for all those who keep telling me “it was good you went before he dies” – no hurry, it’s not going to change anytime soon. If anything, rules are tightening these days. State-appointed company heads are being replaced with pro-Revolution activists by the dozen and authorities are cracking down on previously overlooked practices. I saw a bunch of “Viva Raul” signs around Havana, albeit small ones not quite ready for the prime time.

Anyway… very glad I went.

And as this is an African music web site I thought I’d post a song by a Congo-born Angolan who has been heavily influenced by Cuban music, salsa in particular. We can all thank Benn loxo listener, CC Smith of The Beat Magazine in San Francisco, for today’s music. I’ll share some real Havana Afro-Cuban later in the week.

Ricardo Lemvo combines salsa, soukous and some Afro-Portuguese elements into his music. He’s lived in the States since he was 15, but was born in Congo to parents of Angolan descent. He normally records with Makina Loca, but he’s also done some work with Africando.

Lemvo’s latest album, Isabela, was released this month. I’ve had it on repeat this afternoon while I cook a spicy, end of winter chilli con carne.

Ricardo Lemva & Makina Loca – Kasongo Boogaloo

It’s the weekend. This often means rum, red wine and late-night salsa, West African style.

Two groups today. First, Africando, the project of Senegalese producer and musician Ibrahim Sylla, some of Senegal’s top vocalistst and a bunch of New York salsa musicians. Sylla mixes West African star power with a contemporary American salsa sound.

The project has been amazingly successful having released over 10 discs in 10 years. The latest, Martina, is great. Especially if you have a sexy girlfriend to dance with – thanks, K. Today’s track is off this album and features the vocals of Senegalese Adama “Seka” Seck.

Secondly, we have the Congolese-Cuban combination of Papa Noel (great name) and Papi Oviedo. Their album, Bana Congo, is a great combination of two masterful guitars. Papa Noel, product of the Congolese rumba generation, used to play with Franco and was raised on Cuban music. Papa Oviedo is a Cuban big band legend and master of the double-stringed Cuban mini-guitar, the tres.

Have a good weekend.

Africando – Dioumte
Papa Noel & Papi Oviedo – Bana Congo