Last week I got back from an 11-day trip in Cuba. I spent about a week in Havana plus a few days time in the west of the country, seeing Pinar del Rio, Vinales and finally the beaches and underwater life at Maria la Gorda.

It goes without saying that Cuban music, both old and new, is amazing. I heard the tourist-ringed but high-quality live salsa and rumba on every corner in Havana Vieja, Santaria rumba with the Conjunto folklórico, Afro-Cuban jazz at La Zorra y El Cuelvo, late nights, hard reggaeton and I-wish-I-could-dance-like them action at numerous clubs in Miramar and Vedado, sub-par big-name salsa at La Casa de la Musica and much more.

I try my best not to get political on this site, but let me say that visiting Cuba is a bit like going to a maximum security prison on the beach, snapping pictures of friendly inmates as they go about their business.

Most Cubans aren’t allowed to travel at all, even inter-city within their own country. The average monthly cash take-home is about 15 Euros a month. Prostitution is a disturbingly tolerated practice on a scale that outstrips Nigerian oil bars and Senegalese nightclubs. There are no boats on the water or in the harbour aside from patrols and tourists, not even for fishing. The vast majority of people aren’t allowed to own a car or pretty much anything else. If you’re a Cuban and have a relationship with a foreigner living in Cuba you will usually kiss your chances of getting a travel permit goodbye. The whole system is setup to reward those who play by the rules and punish those who don’t. Never question Fidel and you might get a TV. Organize enough anti-US parades and you might just get a job at a hotel… and the tips that come with it.

As I said to a friend earlier today, Cuba is a beautiful, fascinating… and ultimately very sad place. Any positive things I had thought about certain aspects of Fidel’s Cuba, such as good medicare, innovative urban agriculture policies, etc, went out the window. All of that is worthless if you have absolutely no freedom. And for all those who keep telling me “it was good you went before he dies” – no hurry, it’s not going to change anytime soon. If anything, rules are tightening these days. State-appointed company heads are being replaced with pro-Revolution activists by the dozen and authorities are cracking down on previously overlooked practices. I saw a bunch of “Viva Raul” signs around Havana, albeit small ones not quite ready for the prime time.

Anyway… very glad I went.

And as this is an African music web site I thought I’d post a song by a Congo-born Angolan who has been heavily influenced by Cuban music, salsa in particular. We can all thank Benn loxo listener, CC Smith of The Beat Magazine in San Francisco, for today’s music. I’ll share some real Havana Afro-Cuban later in the week.

Ricardo Lemvo combines salsa, soukous and some Afro-Portuguese elements into his music. He’s lived in the States since he was 15, but was born in Congo to parents of Angolan descent. He normally records with Makina Loca, but he’s also done some work with Africando.

Lemvo’s latest album, Isabela, was released this month. I’ve had it on repeat this afternoon while I cook a spicy, end of winter chilli con carne.

Ricardo Lemva & Makina Loca – Kasongo Boogaloo