On Saturday I took a daytrip to the epicenter of Mouride Islam: Touba, Senegal. The trip proved to be a bit of a lengthy adventure (like nearly all roadtrips in West Africa) but I’m glad I went.
Mouridism is a spiritually and culturally-infused West-African brand of Islam, reviled by Middle Eastern Islamic purists and loved by the Senegalese and Gambian masses. Some of the marabouts (religious “guides”) have huge sway over national politics here. The founder of Mouridism, Cheikh Amadou Bamba, is burried in the massive mosque found in the city of Touba, as are all of the deceased Mouride leaders to date. Touba is also home to Senegal’s largest and strangest market - rumour has it you can buy AK-47s here cheap, and I can confirm that the street traders give a good deal on Japanese Yen.
The incredibly large mosque in Touba is clad in gaudy, imported pink marble and brightly coloured ceramics. Each Friday ten to twenty thousand people come here to pray. Once a year, during the annual pilgrimage called the Magal, around two million people from all over the world descend on Touba to pay hommage to Cheikh Amadou Bamba and his disciples.
Touba the city, both mosque and market, is the best example of Senegalese culture I’ve seen to date. Money and mosques, beggars and BMWs; Senegalese Islam and the marabouts that control it are all about getting to heaven quickly, but with as much bling-bling as possible.
No matter what you think about Bamba and Mouridism you can’t ignore its importance to Senegalese culture and how impressive its mosques, traditional costumes and monuments are.
In honour of the trip I’m going to post some Gambian dancehall/rnb devoted to Serigne Touba (Serigne loosely means “father” or “Big Man”) and the movement he started. Yes, the songs are a bit cheesy in that Gambian pop music way, but they make a perfect companion to a Touba trip for reasons you’ll have to experience to believe.
The pictures in this post are (top to bottom): the main mosque at Touba, detail of the moulded ceiling in the Touba mosque, and the beautiful main mosque in Diourbel, a small city 200km East of Dakar..
The Dancehall Masters - Serigne Touba
The Dancehall Masters - Self-titled
Tags:
gambia,
senegal,
touba